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December 15, 2006 - Don’t know how the days fly by the way they do! We had planned to leave TTSA (Trinidad) on November 17th, just four weeks ago today, but were delayed by the necessary replacement of the flexible joint on our exhaust system. Since we didn’t want a repeat of the muffler disaster when leaving Boqueron, P.R., Roland was fortunate to find an auto muffler shop in Port of Spain (with the help of a taxi driver) where the work was done within an hour. Of course, the installation took much longer than that, and we finished that the following morning.
The next day we were able to sail part of the way around to Scotland Bay on the northwest tip of Trinidad, and since the wind all but died, we motored the remainder of the short trip, a total of about five miles. Scotland Bay is a quiet anchorage, for the most part. Not too many yachts go there, however, the locals consider it a "party place" on the weekends. The most amazing thing about the bay is the sound of the red howler monkeys which live in the rain forest which surrounds this U-shaped area on three sides. At first we heard a whistling noise that sounded like a winter wind soughing through bare trees. As the monkeys are on the move and get closer the noise escalates to a loud roar which has been compared to that of lions. And it is loud! Fortunately it is not constant. Unfortunately, we were never able to spot the howlers swinging through the trees.
This still being the rainy season we had short showers every day. Kathleen enjoyed collecting rainwater and washing out a few clothes, hanging them to dry in the sun after the showers ended. It was certainly an idyllic spot to relax while we waited for S/V Vixen to join us with plans to go to Tobago after Thanksgiving.
Thanksgiving dinner included turkey with all the trimmings and apple pie, couldn’t find any canned pumpkin pie filling and didn’t feel like cooking enough fresh pumpkin to make a pie. This wonderful meal was shared with Denise and Paul, S/V Vixen (Oriental, NC) and Anna and Brian, S/V Trekker (South Africa). It was fun explaining the meaning of the holiday to Anna and Brian, who had never heard of it, and telling them that the traditional meal is usually followed by many hours of American football on TV!
The morning after Thanksgiving, we motor sailed through the Boca (quite a rough channel) around to the northern side of Trinidad. The coastal scenery is breathtaking with the rain forest covered mountains all along the way. Our first stop was Maracas Bay which has a gorgeous beach where we went swimming, and ate lunch at Richard’s Shark and Bake, the best we had in Trinidad. The anchorage was quite rolly and there were too many vicious little black no-see-ums. Kathleen and Denise looked like they had measles on their legs and ankles, and even insect repellant didn’t help fight them off. Guess this is a place that is better visited by day from the land side!
The next stop was the anchorage at Grand Riviere Beach where the giant leatherback turtles lay their eggs in the early summer. It was a pretty spot, and fairly quiet for the night. Monday morning we made the trek to Scarborough, Tobago, arriving mid-afternoon with time to check in at Customs and Immigration. It’s difficult to anticipate what one will find in any given anchorage even though we have guide books with little maps to help us. The anchorage here was big enough for no more than three or four boats as the fast ferry dock, commercial dock, Coast Guard dock, and some private docks all surrounded the spot. We were more than ready to move on the next morning to Store Bay, around Crown Point, just several miles back to the west.
Store Bay is home to several resorts, but there is a small public beach with space to tie up the dinghy and do some exploring ashore. The only problem is that getting the dinghy back into the water almost always includes having breaking waves soaking you as you try to get off the beach. Another lesson learned! Next we went around to the northeast to Mount Irvine Bay. The unusual thing about this bay is the SURF that breaks around the rocks on the north corner. And there were at least a dozen surfers out there from dawn until dusk catching some pretty good waves. They were fun to watch from close-up in the dinghy. We all took a walk up the hill from the bay, and took a side trip along tire-rutted tracks to Back Bay. There was a warning at the road that there were no lifeguards on duty and exercise caution. When we got to the path down the hill to the beach, there was another warning sign about the machioneel tree’s toxic properties. We already knew about that one from the BVI’s and Carriacou. The descent was quite steep with makeshift steps part way, but well worth the small effort. The beach was spectacular! Breaking surf, little tidal pools among the rocks, just the sort of place you see in pictures! A local man was also raking the beach, and burning the branches in small piles, to keep it clean.
Our last anchorage in Tobago was Man-O-War Bay and the village of Charlotteville. We had intended to stop at either Englishman’s Bay or Parlatuvier Bay, but both were too small and rough. As it turned out, the last stop was rolly as well. Since we had to wait for a weather window to leave for Grenada, there wasn’t much we could do but endure the rolly conditions. Going to shore to walk around helped. We went to the library to use the Internet briefly, bought a few groceries at the little store, and ate lunch at a little restaurant by the dock. Kathleen used the opportunity to make another panel of plastic window between the dodger and bimini, and to put a plastic window in the "ceiling" panel as well that helps us to see the sails from the cockpit.
Having listened to the weather reports, we were well aware that the conditions were not optimal for an overnight to Grenada. However, the conditions at anchor weren’t so great either, so we decided to make a run for it on the 5th. "It was a dark and stormy night..." is a time-honored beginning of many novels. Well, it WAS a dark and stormy night. We encountered several squalls along the way, but nothing we couldn’t handle. It was just very tiring so we were wet, but happy, when we arrived at Prickly Bay about 8 A.M. on the sixth of December. The first order of business was a meal, then a nap, before checking in with Customs and Immigration in the afternoon.
It’s nice to be back here, a place where we pretty much know our way around this being our third visit to Grenada and our second time anchored in Prickly Bay. So far we’ve been to the Saturday Market in downtown St. George’s, BBQ lunch and the Christmas Bazaar at the True Blue Marina on Sunday, and Tuesday Trivia Night at the Prickly Bay Marina. Last night we took a one hour bus ride to the village of Gouyave for Friday Night Fish Fry. This is a weekly event which sometimes boasts as many as 2,000 visitors. Gouyave is the home of the best fishermen on the island, and the fish fry included many kinds of fish prepared in many different ways, as well as those huge warm water lobsters that Kathleen is crazy about, but doesn’t often get to eat.
Many of the friends with whom we spent the summer in Trinidad have already headed further north to the island of Bequai for Christmas. There are so many boats headed there that it is said you’ll need a shoe horn to get into the anchorage. We had thought we’d be up there as well, but plans change, and we’ve been taking our time doing other things. And for now...we’re just hanging out, relaxing, socializing with old friends and meeting new friends.
Since we probably won’t update this until after Christmas, we’ll wish everyone a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year now!
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